Chaat (sometimes spelt chat) Masala is a Pakistani and North Indian spice mix which is both sweet and sour in taste. There are, of course, more versions than I can shake a stick at but my version is below.

There are a couple of unusual ingredients, the first being Kala Namak (Indian black salt) and secondly Amchoor (dried mango powder). If you track down either of these ingredients in rural Spain then please do let me know.

Blend the following ingredients in a spice grinder or a pestle and mortar if you want to give your arms a work out.

1 tbs roasted cumin seeds

1 tbs roasted fennel seeds

Pinch asafoetida

½ tbs garam masala

½ tbs amchoor (dried mango powder)

½ tbs kala namak (black salt)

½ tsp cayenne pepper

½ tsp ground ginger

½ tsp roasted black peppercorns

Dry fry or roast the cumin, fennel seeds and peppercorn until they start to release their oils giving off a wonderful aroma. Make sure not to burn them.

Add all ingredients to a spice blender and pulse until powdered.

Place in an airtight container in a cool dark place where is will keep for a couple of months but I prefer to mix and grind it as and when I need it.

On the day I ground my mix I used it as a rub for fish that I baked in the oven and served with roasted vegetables. 

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For the train spotters: We travelled overnight from Delhi on the mail train to Lucknow. It was a laborious 9.5 hours. We shared a 4 berth area with very little privacy. And it was very noisy.

Lucknow is a city of 2.5 million and at times it seems as though the majority of the populous live on the streets or in terribly overcrowded huts or rooms in decrepit old buildings. We saw it as we searched all over town looking for WiFi.

After visiting the British Residency* we didn't find WiFi but we did discover Tunday Kababi tucked away in a bristling bazaar - try to imagine downtown Kabul. The food was fabulous with a high turnover of diners. We were stuffed after spending £2.36 in total. It is a Muslim establishment with a separate dining area for women and we didn't feel comfortable in taking photographs inside but Tony captured a few shots of the outside.

This was our 5th day in India and the end of my vegetarianism. I simply couldn't resist the kebabs and please understand these are nothing like the kebabs served up in England but ground meat mixed with spices and served with flat bread.

*The Siege of Lucknow was the prolonged defence of the Residency within the city of Lucknow during the Indian Rebellion of 1857. After two successive relief attempts had reached the city, the defenders and civilians were evacuated from the Residency, which was then abandoned. Wiki. 

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Visiting New Delhi is not complete without a trip to the 17th century market. It is one of India’s largest.

Kalu travels 40km (each-way) every day to Delhi by bus just so that he can cycle a rickshaw that he doesn't even own. It is a very tough life and this day he peddled his rickshaw around the market of Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi carrying Tony and I. We stopped at the spice market, of course. 

It is loud and dirty but vibrant - the wholesale spices are traded and sold in an old mughal building which seems to be held together by prayers alone.

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India smells, sometimes good, sometimes foul but most of the time there's an underlying aroma that is made up of:

Smog
Tobacco
Cheap soap
Holy cow shit
Spices
Drains
Curry
Smoke
Incense
Inexpensive cologne
Urine

And I defy any woman I know to use the public conveniences.

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Bisht was our Sikh taxi driver, he took us to one of the many temples in Delhi and after a tour of the last temple and grounds he took us to a large kitchen where volunteers cook and provide food for the poor on a 24 hour basis. Whilst we watched bubbling cauldrons of curry an enthusiastic team were rolling chapatis by hand, hundreds of life savers I suspect.

Guru Nanak Sahib is the head of this place, 

the unseen host at every meal, 

the silent listener.

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Everybody in Delhi drives with their hands on the horn. Honk when somebody is in your way or if you want to overtake or even undertake, it doesn't seem to matter, the only important thing is that you honk.

I have been to many cities, often noticing 'the have and the have nots' but in Delhi I found that most people have very little or a large proportion have nothing. There's poor then there is squalor. And with squalor comes families living on the streets - you couldn't fail to notice it.

Now this brings me to Mili, her young daughter and baby. Mili clocked us as we jumped off our rickshaw at the Red Fort. She was selling postcards and tried her sales pitch from our parked up rickshaw to the fort's entrance. I told her to catch me on the way out. She called that she would wait for me and reiterated with, I will remember you. And she did wait. As we exited the fort she guided us to our rickshaw selling me a pack of postcards that I knew I had paid double the usual amount for.

Delhi is also very dirty unless you live in 'Green Delhi' where the powerful, diplomats and rich reside. There they have big houses with gardens, wide roads and parks. Mili and the like probably live under a railway arch, if they are lucky.

It is not for me to question why India has space and nuclear programmes when a vast swathe of their population clearly live below the poverty line - far, far below it.

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